On tap: Half Acre's taproom, which is awaiting final permitting, promisies to be a fascinating new platform for some of Chicago's most beloved beer. (Abel Uribe/Chicago Tribune) |
Joe Barley had a good life in San Diego. He was living two miles from the beach, managing models' careers and planning to open a craft beer bar. Then his little brother came calling.
John Barley, who is four years younger, wanted to open a brewery in Naperville called Solemn Oath. It would specialize in Belgian-style beers with bold American twists. John Barley spent nine months persuading his older brother to move back to the Midwest to join him. John even made a trip to San Diego to make his case.
"I wasn't hesitant about the brewery, as I knew it would be amazing," Joe, 35, said. "I was hesitant to leave the beach."
Chicago-area beer drinkers are glad he did. Solemn Oath has become a quick staple in the constellation of local craft beer, appearing on tap at 140 locations, all of whom, said John Barley, have wanted more kegs.
But for the truest Solemn Oath experience, head to the brewery's taproom in Naperville. In a region quickly evolving into a major craft beer player (look out, Denver and Portland, Ore.!), Solemn Oath is among the most eye-opening of those recently opened. Here's a rundown of the new entries.
Solemn Oath Brewery
Much of Solemn Oath's new home, in a former industrial park automotive repair shop, has been set aside for brewing and expansion. But in a tidy front corner, local designer Greta de Parry has created a sleek space to match the beers: modern and edgy, yet familiar and comfortable.
Spread across a concrete floor, the taproom is highlighted by an L-shaped walnut bar ringed by about a dozen concrete-and-steel stools. Ten taps sit behind that bar, four to nine of which are pouring beer at a time, though there is no guarantee of what they might be. Solemn Oath makes no year-round beers but will eventually. John Barley said the market will make that decision.
When I visited, the beers offered a healthy range, from Khlorost Escobar -- a blond coffee-infused wheat beer -- to Man vs. Internet, a well-hopped Belgian red ale edging close to 10 percent alcohol. There is commonality among Solemn Oath beers, most of which possess some degree of Belgian yeast and West Coast hops, and often both. The results are bright, tasty hybrids that reach well beyond traditional styles, demonstrating the inventive best of contemporary American craft brewing.
The brewery is already planning to expand, with equipment ordered that will allow it to make about 60 percent more beer by early next year. In May, they plan to expand again.
"We could probably grow three or four times tomorrow and sell all our beer, but is that how we want to grow as a company?" John Barley said. "Selling out of the beer in a couple days is where we want to be."
That's especially true in the taproom, which is open only until 9 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 7 p.m. on Sunday, yet the brothers say it has become a reliable madhouse on weekend nights. Even at 2 p.m. on a recent Wednesday, there were only a few open seats at the bar.
Though the Barleys considered opening in Chicago, their bet on a Naperville industrial park seems to be working.
"We wanted to branch out a little bit," John Barley said. "Naperville has a large population and a great community. There are lots of wine drinkers ready to be converted, and we see it every day in the taproom."
Summing up: Many of Solemn Oath's beers are reminiscent of one another, but that's not a bad thing: The flavors are unanimously interesting and clean (due largely to the experience and vision of brewmaster Tim Marshall, who spent 12 years in the Rock Bottom chain), making the brewery one of the most exciting to pop up in Chicago's recent wave of craft brewers.
1661 Quincy Ave., Naperville, 630-995-3062, solemnoathbrewery.com
Atlas Brewing Co.
When Steve Soble had an underperforming pool room beside his Lincoln Park bowling alley, Seven Ten Lounge, he knew it was finally time to get into the brewing business.
The longtime Chicago bar and restaurant owner, who also owns Daily Bar and Grill, New Line Tavern and Southport Lanes, first considered opening a brewery in the 1990s in Ravenswood. He scuttled the idea after running into community opposition.
But with craft beer's boom upon us and an underutilized space on a busy stretch of Lincoln Avenue, he knew it was time. Atlas beer began flowing in late July. Both the businessman and beer fan in Soble were pleased.
"I use the business side of things to rationalize what I'm doing, but I've always been into craft beer, all the way back when I opened my first place in 1989," he said.
Brothers John and Ben Saller, who grew up in Hyde Park, came on as partners. Ben, 28, a longtime home brewer, is brewmaster. It's his first professional brewing gig. Eight beers were on tap when I visited, a fairly standard assortment of ales from light (an easy-drinking golden ale) to dark (smoked porter).
"We don't try to do gimmicky beers," Ben Saller said. "You have your Dogfish Heads, which I like and respect. But they have a lot of beers with a lot of strange ingredients that I'll try once and probably never come back to."
Atlas is essentially a classed-up traditional Chicago tavern -- thin and long with a black marble bar that seats about 15. Just beyond the end of the bar, patrons get a view into the bright white-tiled room that houses Atlas' brewing tanks. But the visual highlight is the artwork opposite the bar: back-lit ads of long-defunct Chicago breweries. Atlas, in fact, is named for another Atlas brewing, which Soble's research told him was among the city's first breweries. Except this Atlas brewing is dimly lit Lincoln Park chic.
"The concept started as bringing back the neighborhood brewery," Soble said. "There's still so much untapped potential in this city."
Summing up: Atlas' beer at this early stage is uneven and includes several that are simply bitter without an interesting journey or flavor. This is often the case with young breweries and first-time professional brewers, so odds are that Atlas will find its footing.
2747 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-295-1270; atlasbar.projectparties.com
Revolution taproom
There are plenty of reasons to love Revolution's brewpub on Milwaukee Avenue: the food, the beer and the people-watching when you get that perfect spot at the bar. There are wholly other reasons to love the taproom in its Kedzie Avenue production brewery.
First, the brewery didn't cheap out on the number of taps. There are 16 of them, the same number of Rev beers poured at the brewpub, and the brewery said more will likely be added. Also, the beers that have disappeared at the far-busier brewpub are often still on draft at the taproom. Finally, it's an absolutely massive (and relatively mellow) space with expansive views of the brewery: rows of barrels of aging stouts, barley wines and porters, a huge American flag and, beyond a glass wall, tall, gleaming brewing tanks.
It's usually busiest around 6 p.m., which is when free tours, limited to 40 people, are offered. Later in the evening -- the taproom is only open 2-10 p.m. Wednesday though Saturday -- things calm nicely, quite unlike its Milwaukee Avenue sibling.
Summing up: Owner Josh Deth has surrounded himself with immense talent, and it shows in nearly every Revolution beer, regardless of style. The taproom is a welcome addition, mostly as an antidote to the crush of bodies that can overwhelm the brewpub, but without a drop-off in beer quality and options.
3340 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-588-2267; revbrew.com
Half Acre taproom
(coming soon -- maybe)
Though the opening remains in limbo -- final permitting awaits, which makes early November seem likely -- Half Acre's taproom promises to be a fascinating new platform for some of Chicago's most beloved beer.
From 10 draft lines in a gorgeous block of wood, owner Gabriel Magliaro plans to sell Half Acre beers in the taproom that are available nowhere else -- no bottles, no cans and not at other bars. Included will be a house brew called Space, an India pale ale released in bottles last year under the name Daly Double, and a rotating guest beer made by visiting professional brewers on Half Acre equipment.
The taproom is as pretty a place as there is to drink in Chicago. Magliaro called himself "a wood nerd," and the proof is on the taproom walls. The room's most arresting element, other than the beer, of course, are the wavy pine walls salvaged from the inside of a 100-year-old Wisconsin grain elevator.
The room is full of clean lines, though heavy with natural elements: wood, brick and concrete. The floor was assembled from white 40-year-old Japanese tile. It adds up to beautiful simplicity, like the most Scandinavian of lunchrooms.
"This is about an environment where we can roll out new beer with ongoing diversity and connect with people on a deeper level," Magliaro said. "The store has been great, but it's one thing to pour someone a growler and say 'Hi.' This is a deeper experience and, hopefully, fun."
Summing up: Half Acre has hit its stride, along with Revolution, as a newer brewery that knows what it wants to do and does so expertly. I can't wait to try the new stuff in the taproom.
4257 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-248-4038, halfacrebeer.com
— Josh Noel
John Barley, who is four years younger, wanted to open a brewery in Naperville called Solemn Oath. It would specialize in Belgian-style beers with bold American twists. John Barley spent nine months persuading his older brother to move back to the Midwest to join him. John even made a trip to San Diego to make his case.
"I wasn't hesitant about the brewery, as I knew it would be amazing," Joe, 35, said. "I was hesitant to leave the beach."
Chicago-area beer drinkers are glad he did. Solemn Oath has become a quick staple in the constellation of local craft beer, appearing on tap at 140 locations, all of whom, said John Barley, have wanted more kegs.
But for the truest Solemn Oath experience, head to the brewery's taproom in Naperville. In a region quickly evolving into a major craft beer player (look out, Denver and Portland, Ore.!), Solemn Oath is among the most eye-opening of those recently opened. Here's a rundown of the new entries.
Solemn Oath Brewery
Much of Solemn Oath's new home, in a former industrial park automotive repair shop, has been set aside for brewing and expansion. But in a tidy front corner, local designer Greta de Parry has created a sleek space to match the beers: modern and edgy, yet familiar and comfortable.
Spread across a concrete floor, the taproom is highlighted by an L-shaped walnut bar ringed by about a dozen concrete-and-steel stools. Ten taps sit behind that bar, four to nine of which are pouring beer at a time, though there is no guarantee of what they might be. Solemn Oath makes no year-round beers but will eventually. John Barley said the market will make that decision.
When I visited, the beers offered a healthy range, from Khlorost Escobar -- a blond coffee-infused wheat beer -- to Man vs. Internet, a well-hopped Belgian red ale edging close to 10 percent alcohol. There is commonality among Solemn Oath beers, most of which possess some degree of Belgian yeast and West Coast hops, and often both. The results are bright, tasty hybrids that reach well beyond traditional styles, demonstrating the inventive best of contemporary American craft brewing.
The brewery is already planning to expand, with equipment ordered that will allow it to make about 60 percent more beer by early next year. In May, they plan to expand again.
"We could probably grow three or four times tomorrow and sell all our beer, but is that how we want to grow as a company?" John Barley said. "Selling out of the beer in a couple days is where we want to be."
That's especially true in the taproom, which is open only until 9 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 7 p.m. on Sunday, yet the brothers say it has become a reliable madhouse on weekend nights. Even at 2 p.m. on a recent Wednesday, there were only a few open seats at the bar.
Though the Barleys considered opening in Chicago, their bet on a Naperville industrial park seems to be working.
"We wanted to branch out a little bit," John Barley said. "Naperville has a large population and a great community. There are lots of wine drinkers ready to be converted, and we see it every day in the taproom."
Summing up: Many of Solemn Oath's beers are reminiscent of one another, but that's not a bad thing: The flavors are unanimously interesting and clean (due largely to the experience and vision of brewmaster Tim Marshall, who spent 12 years in the Rock Bottom chain), making the brewery one of the most exciting to pop up in Chicago's recent wave of craft brewers.
1661 Quincy Ave., Naperville, 630-995-3062, solemnoathbrewery.com
Atlas Brewing Co.
When Steve Soble had an underperforming pool room beside his Lincoln Park bowling alley, Seven Ten Lounge, he knew it was finally time to get into the brewing business.
The longtime Chicago bar and restaurant owner, who also owns Daily Bar and Grill, New Line Tavern and Southport Lanes, first considered opening a brewery in the 1990s in Ravenswood. He scuttled the idea after running into community opposition.
But with craft beer's boom upon us and an underutilized space on a busy stretch of Lincoln Avenue, he knew it was time. Atlas beer began flowing in late July. Both the businessman and beer fan in Soble were pleased.
"I use the business side of things to rationalize what I'm doing, but I've always been into craft beer, all the way back when I opened my first place in 1989," he said.
Brothers John and Ben Saller, who grew up in Hyde Park, came on as partners. Ben, 28, a longtime home brewer, is brewmaster. It's his first professional brewing gig. Eight beers were on tap when I visited, a fairly standard assortment of ales from light (an easy-drinking golden ale) to dark (smoked porter).
"We don't try to do gimmicky beers," Ben Saller said. "You have your Dogfish Heads, which I like and respect. But they have a lot of beers with a lot of strange ingredients that I'll try once and probably never come back to."
Atlas is essentially a classed-up traditional Chicago tavern -- thin and long with a black marble bar that seats about 15. Just beyond the end of the bar, patrons get a view into the bright white-tiled room that houses Atlas' brewing tanks. But the visual highlight is the artwork opposite the bar: back-lit ads of long-defunct Chicago breweries. Atlas, in fact, is named for another Atlas brewing, which Soble's research told him was among the city's first breweries. Except this Atlas brewing is dimly lit Lincoln Park chic.
"The concept started as bringing back the neighborhood brewery," Soble said. "There's still so much untapped potential in this city."
Summing up: Atlas' beer at this early stage is uneven and includes several that are simply bitter without an interesting journey or flavor. This is often the case with young breweries and first-time professional brewers, so odds are that Atlas will find its footing.
2747 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-295-1270; atlasbar.projectparties.com
Revolution taproom
There are plenty of reasons to love Revolution's brewpub on Milwaukee Avenue: the food, the beer and the people-watching when you get that perfect spot at the bar. There are wholly other reasons to love the taproom in its Kedzie Avenue production brewery.
First, the brewery didn't cheap out on the number of taps. There are 16 of them, the same number of Rev beers poured at the brewpub, and the brewery said more will likely be added. Also, the beers that have disappeared at the far-busier brewpub are often still on draft at the taproom. Finally, it's an absolutely massive (and relatively mellow) space with expansive views of the brewery: rows of barrels of aging stouts, barley wines and porters, a huge American flag and, beyond a glass wall, tall, gleaming brewing tanks.
It's usually busiest around 6 p.m., which is when free tours, limited to 40 people, are offered. Later in the evening -- the taproom is only open 2-10 p.m. Wednesday though Saturday -- things calm nicely, quite unlike its Milwaukee Avenue sibling.
Summing up: Owner Josh Deth has surrounded himself with immense talent, and it shows in nearly every Revolution beer, regardless of style. The taproom is a welcome addition, mostly as an antidote to the crush of bodies that can overwhelm the brewpub, but without a drop-off in beer quality and options.
3340 N. Kedzie Ave., 773-588-2267; revbrew.com
Half Acre taproom
(coming soon -- maybe)
Though the opening remains in limbo -- final permitting awaits, which makes early November seem likely -- Half Acre's taproom promises to be a fascinating new platform for some of Chicago's most beloved beer.
From 10 draft lines in a gorgeous block of wood, owner Gabriel Magliaro plans to sell Half Acre beers in the taproom that are available nowhere else -- no bottles, no cans and not at other bars. Included will be a house brew called Space, an India pale ale released in bottles last year under the name Daly Double, and a rotating guest beer made by visiting professional brewers on Half Acre equipment.
The taproom is as pretty a place as there is to drink in Chicago. Magliaro called himself "a wood nerd," and the proof is on the taproom walls. The room's most arresting element, other than the beer, of course, are the wavy pine walls salvaged from the inside of a 100-year-old Wisconsin grain elevator.
The room is full of clean lines, though heavy with natural elements: wood, brick and concrete. The floor was assembled from white 40-year-old Japanese tile. It adds up to beautiful simplicity, like the most Scandinavian of lunchrooms.
"This is about an environment where we can roll out new beer with ongoing diversity and connect with people on a deeper level," Magliaro said. "The store has been great, but it's one thing to pour someone a growler and say 'Hi.' This is a deeper experience and, hopefully, fun."
Summing up: Half Acre has hit its stride, along with Revolution, as a newer brewery that knows what it wants to do and does so expertly. I can't wait to try the new stuff in the taproom.
4257 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-248-4038, halfacrebeer.com
— Josh Noel
