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The Best of Leah

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A nutty remake

May 29, 2011

Leah Eskin: A nutty remake

I've never escorted the Nutella-toast crowd to Italy. But we did stop at Eataly, the Manhattan eatery owned by Mario Batali (and friends).

The pop-up stop

May 15, 2011

Leah Eskin: The pop-up stop

Out to dinner recently, a popover popped onto my plate.

Time to play the piper

April 10, 2011

Leah Eskin: Time to play the piper

Drop that pen. Hands off the keyboard. Back away from the phone. Don't bother. Do not compose the macaron lament.

Grandma's cookies

Grandma's cookies

Haman, legend has it, was a bad guy who wore a bad hat. He is remembered and reviled on the holiday Purim in story, song and snack. Rare is the leader — good or bad — who has a pastry named for his hat.

Spoonful of comfort

Spoonful of comfort

Bread gets along well with the knife. A serrated one for slicing and a blunt one to handle the buttering. Perhaps a slotted one for trimming cheese to suit. Bread has no need for fork, or spoon.

Pastry dough

Pastry dough

Rules is rules. And the baker is advised to follow them. Should she care to produce a tender and tasty tart, she will mind the pate sablee rulebook.

Cooking with persimmons

Cooking with persimmons

The persimmon caught my eye, just when I was packing up the sweet potatoes and arugula.

Cod fritters

Cod fritters

Salt cod is a Christmas specialty, somewhere. So at Christmastime I bought a brick. I stuck it in the back of the fridge, remembering that it's supposed to keep forever.

Winter pot pie

Winter pot pie

Kitchen and chicken are practically the same thing, at least to the dyslexic and the hungry.

Saltine toffee

Saltine toffee

The holidays call for the holiday party, and the holiday party calls for toffee. The imported sort, coated with dark chocolate and dusted with praline.

Mashed potatoes

Mashed potatoes

The sages claim: What goes around, comes around. And you find this observation true.

Prime real estate: Gingercake

Prime real estate: Gingercake

The housing collapse is discouraging, especially during the festive season, when so many of us are trying to keep the gingerbread house standing.

Velvet cupcakes

Velvet cupcakes

The red velvet cupcake is self-explanatory. It's a cupcake. It offers a velvet-soft crumb. And it's red.

Potato tacos

Potato tacos

10/10/10 makes an impressive date, round and portentous. Mom and dad were both born on 10/10, different years, same birthday. It seemed a good day to celebrate.

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